After having ghosting cabinet one or two doors for years and now the count reached total four, so I decided to dig thru to solve the problem.
Definitely not easy thing to start as identifying the broken piece in this small but delicate fine mechanical system was not easy.
Finally after adding my laboring on top of some Youtubing and Amazoning finally all doors’ ghost disappeared. And felt so funny to realize the fact that peace of mind has come from the cabinet door stay closed and firm ๐
This has been in the check list for the long time but finally changed to new & black door knob as the closest door also changed from gold to black. ๐
Now question is what is the next one to change & when… ๐
Front door started to show fatigue from this summer – Lever failed then Deadbolt started to not release the key when it needs to release. So had to let the old set go and welcome new set which was ordered at the perfect timing
After noticing flaky warning lights on and off of ABS and ESC Off light for a while at my aging Sonata- like years-, I have noticed those two lights have always showed up in dash from some point in past – maybe before pandemic. But as a cheap guy ๐ I have ignored with the thoughts that I don’t need ABS nor ESC Off function anyhow… ๐
However, in last week after going thru hilly roads, one driver who was following me for a while finally walked to me at the stop light and told me “Dude your break lights are off!” then my stress from ‘fear of getting rearended by a car behind me at night’ started ๐
As a cheap and stupid owner, I thought it was a bulb problem ๐ – I had my Odyssey’s bulb fried on both sides of rear for a while ๐ However, the bulbs at Sonata were absolutely clean without any sign of problems.
After some YouTube research and looking at Sonata’s wiring diagrams – I realized break lights and ABS ESC switch are all connected and controlled by the switch connect/disconnect on the lever behind the break pad.
So as a cheap and easy guy, I fall into the trap of YouTube always being easy ๐ finally ordered the part from Amazon and end up rushing to auto part store to buy a “when needed not easily found” 14mm ranch. After struggling with acrobatic posture of throwing myself at the bottom under the handle for good 20 minutes and finally replaced the break switch.
Now, here comes the peace of no fear of rear-ended and no irritating dash lights plus likely I saved some good $120-$130 cost for replacing this part at auto shop. ๐
After extensive research on cause of dome/reading light failure, I found out most of the case for Honda Odyssey not working on single side is likely the switch failure but not the burnout of bulb. This meant I will only be able to fix it, if I endeavor to open the whole unit and replace the switch.
After 30 mins of trial-and-error approach on detaching the dome/reading light unit and $15 package from Amazon (2 LED bulb+2 Switch+Plastic wiggling tool) finally changed the faulty switch – now back to brightness in Honda Odyssey ๐
The familiar rattling noise around 2000-2200 RPM restarted on my Odyssey but this time at slightly different location – the clamp solution last time at Catalytic Converter on the passenger side seems intact while the noise was from the middle part so I tested with similar solution on the other Catalytic Converter.
This time, I tried the nail as a plug between the gap of heat reflector and Catalytic Converter with micro ratchet and looks like it is working fine!! Let’s see how long this plug will stay intact at the location ๐
Our poor minivan has been struggling to blast the lights out due to cataract ๐ so planted a new eye lens on it. ๐
Originally was planning to either use toothpaste cleaning or sandpapering+clear coating but found a good deal out new headlights so endeavored into replacement works ๐
Finally, the spray can has been delivered and finished the unfinished business..after water sanding, taping, painting, coating, and reassembling.. ๐
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