Happen to meet one of my dream offroad car I have always wanted to drive. Although I didn’t had a chance to fully utilize it – it was a good experience ๐
Finally after buying the 220V split, extension cord, and charging kit with poking a pass thru holes on wall, (This was tough as small wall had lots of electrical wires behind it) but now I can charge the car at home.
Thanks to series of actions caused by US Gov and economy, (new car inflation, fuel cost, and IRA acts) my ‘originally vague plan of getting a Tesla’ came to fruition in much fast forward manner at the end of year. Now I need to learn how to set up all other things to enable home charging in any fashion. ๐
After noticing flaky warning lights on and off of ABS and ESC Off light for a while at my aging Sonata- like years-, I have noticed those two lights have always showed up in dash from some point in past – maybe before pandemic. But as a cheap guy ๐ I have ignored with the thoughts that I don’t need ABS nor ESC Off function anyhow… ๐
However, in last week after going thru hilly roads, one driver who was following me for a while finally walked to me at the stop light and told me “Dude your break lights are off!” then my stress from ‘fear of getting rearended by a car behind me at night’ started ๐
As a cheap and stupid owner, I thought it was a bulb problem ๐ – I had my Odyssey’s bulb fried on both sides of rear for a while ๐ However, the bulbs at Sonata were absolutely clean without any sign of problems.
After some YouTube research and looking at Sonata’s wiring diagrams – I realized break lights and ABS ESC switch are all connected and controlled by the switch connect/disconnect on the lever behind the break pad.
So as a cheap and easy guy, I fall into the trap of YouTube always being easy ๐ finally ordered the part from Amazon and end up rushing to auto part store to buy a “when needed not easily found” 14mm ranch. After struggling with acrobatic posture of throwing myself at the bottom under the handle for good 20 minutes and finally replaced the break switch.
Now, here comes the peace of no fear of rear-ended and no irritating dash lights plus likely I saved some good $120-$130 cost for replacing this part at auto shop. ๐
After extensive research on cause of dome/reading light failure, I found out most of the case for Honda Odyssey not working on single side is likely the switch failure but not the burnout of bulb. This meant I will only be able to fix it, if I endeavor to open the whole unit and replace the switch.
After 30 mins of trial-and-error approach on detaching the dome/reading light unit and $15 package from Amazon (2 LED bulb+2 Switch+Plastic wiggling tool) finally changed the faulty switch – now back to brightness in Honda Odyssey ๐
Drove RAV4 nicely -Last time I think I drove RAV4 is like 2000 at San Francisco ๐ SUV is always best when driving in unfamiliar town & streets. Checking the rental record at day of return – amazed that they even tracked the level of fuel!
The familiar rattling noise around 2000-2200 RPM restarted on my Odyssey but this time at slightly different location – the clamp solution last time at Catalytic Converter on the passenger side seems intact while the noise was from the middle part so I tested with similar solution on the other Catalytic Converter.
This time, I tried the nail as a plug between the gap of heat reflector and Catalytic Converter with micro ratchet and looks like it is working fine!! Let’s see how long this plug will stay intact at the location ๐
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